level entirely. The Okavango Delta
in particular is home to some of
Africa’s most sumptuous safari
destinations. Owned by Paul Allen of
Microsoft fame, Abu Camp has just
six permanent tents – each a private
haven of comfort and impeccable
taste – as well as access to a trained
herd of African elephant. Baby Naledi
stole my heart and herd leader, Cathy,
my breath as she carried me through
the bush on her back at sunset.
Experiential luxury is at its finest
surrounded by the waterways of the
Okavango – whether you’re being
poled past a lone giraffe in a mekoro
(traditional canoe) or watching a
movie beneath the stars – sofas set on
carpets, popcorn cooked over the coals
and hot water bottles at the ready –
just for a few hours, just for you.
As different camps offer different
experiences, safaris usually combine
stays at several camps. It is advisable
to let an experienced travel specialist
such as Robert Mark Safaris (www.
robertmarksafaris.com) arrange your
itinerary (at no extra cost) as Africa
can be challenging to deal with from
afar.
Sunset
A sundowner is Southern Africa’s
term for a sunset drink. Whether your
tipple of choice is champers or a G
‘n T, you’ll enjoy it out in the wild on
your evening game drive. As the heat
of the day dissipates, predators get
ready to prowl and prey to shake off
their afternoon languor. Chances are,
you and yours will also have taken a
nap and now, as the cooler air heralds
the coming of night, anticipation will
again set your pulse racing.
We leave camp and within
minutes, come across a pride of 12
young male lions, bellies distended
from an earlier zebra kill. They barely
register our presence as we inch
towards them through the bush. We
stop a safe distance away – about 20
metres – and our daughter practices
her fledgling counting skills. And then
they’re moving off – we don’t know
why until suddenly our vehicle is
surrounded by a herd of 200 grazing
buffalo. As the stragglers finally
disappear into the trees and the last
pink streaks fade into stars, we finish
our drinks and head back to camp. A
fireside dinner awaits and the chance
to relive the sightings of the day. Our
kids eagerly share with other guests
our lion and buffalo encounter and
this morning’s sighting of a honey
badger. They have absorbed and
come to own their parent’s excitement
at seeing this fierce and rarely spotted
creature. I think of a quote accredited
to Chief Seattle and am so glad they
are experiencing this all with us.
“Humankind has not woven the
web of life. We are but one thread
within it. Whatever we do to the web,
we do to ourselves. All things are
bound together. All things connect.”
On safari this truth is patently clear.
