town of Chilling where we have a
suitably relaxed picnic in the garden
of a silversmith. We visit the religious
enclave at Alchi, where ancient wall
paintings and wooden sculptures have
survived for over nine centuries within
five mud-walled temples, and we speak
to a monk at sunset about Buddhism,
before enjoying luxurious massages.
Nubra Valley
And then it’s today, although this
morning’s drive into the Nubra Valley
over the magnificent Khardung La
Pass – one of the highest motorable
roads in the world at 18,380 feet –
seems like an age ago. Awe-inspiring
and hair-raising in equal measures,
the road winds up, then down with
no barriers between you and eternity.
Entertaining signs that nonetheless
remind drivers of the road’s perils
abound: “Love thy neighbor, but not
while driving“, “If you’re married,
divorce speed”, “Drinking whiskey
very risky” and “Don’t gossip let him
drive” are just a few.
A sigh of relief and regret, as
we finally arrive at our picnic spot
on the pebbled banks of the Shayok
River. What started high above in the
snows of Khardung La Pass is now
a swift torrent of icy water hurtling
unhindered across the broad valley
floor. After lunch, we don our wetsuits
and helmets, then find ourselves
rushing along on the back of the
raging river – adrenaline pumping and
spirits high. Can it get better than this?
It can. Awaiting us is a river
camp of luxury tents, a Bactrian
camel ride through dunes flushed with
sunset, and a picnic site straight out
of The Arabian Nights. Cushions are
arranged on mats in the sand amidst
a ring of fires, lit as the last light fades.
As I sip my drink and count shooting
stars after dinner, I accept that the
basic tenet of Buddhism – that nothing
is permanent – is true; this idyll
must end. But I also know that these
mountains aren’t going anywhere for
a good long while, and I’m definitely
coming back.
• Plan your trip: Shakti offers luxury
village experiences in Ladakh,
as well as in Kumaon and Sikkim.
• How to get there: Jet Airways flies
direct to Delhi from Hong Kong,
and from Delhi to Leh daily.
• Extend your trip: Banyan Tours
& Travels provides the highest
standard in travel arrangements in
India. Email
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