Bear Park. Locally known as
higuma
,
this cousin of North America’s grizzly
bear is the largest land mammal
indigenous to Japan. It was revered
by Hokkaido’s ethnic tribe, the Ainu,
who believed that the
higuma
was a
god. The Noboribetsu Bear Park,
which has been raising and studying
the
higuma
since 1958, is now home
to more than 100 brown bears and
aims to raise awareness of the animal’s
dwindling numbers in Hokkaido,
which is down to about 2,000. The
park is also an excellent venue to
discover the traditional culture of the
Ainu people.
A half-day will be just about right
to spend at the park. If you have the
time afterwards, treat yourself to a
soothing dip in one of the hot springs
in Noboribetsu (where you might just
catch sight of a snow monkey!) before
you head off to Toyako, where you will
be spending the night.
Days 2 to 3: Toyako
Sitting at the foot of the majestic but
menacing Mount Usu volcano, the
town of Toyako has been ravaged
repeatedly by its powerful eruptions,
one of which was as recent as the year
2000. However, it is the same violent,
volcanic activity – which has been
occurring since prehistoric times –
that has shaped the breathless beauty
of this town and its surrounds. Land
shifted and formed craters that later
turned into lakes, including Lake Toya
in the foreground to Mount Usu.
You can learn more about the
town’s earth-shaking past at the
Toyako Visitor Centre, which also
houses a volcano science museum,
where you will find evidence of
Mount Usu’s wrath, including actual
ash deposits. And if you haven’t felt
an earthquake before, you will also
get your chance to do so (without
the worrying casualties) through the
museum’s earthquake simulator.
The rest of your stay can be spent
enjoying the gifts of Mount Usu: you
could take a cruise on a pleasure boat
or go canoeing along Lake Toya, hike
up the mountains, or take the Usuzan
ropeway to catch a panoramic view of
the Shikotsu-Toya National Park and
get a closer look at craters spewing
sulphuric steam. Don’t forget to catch
the nightly fireworks from April to
October, which can be viewed from
the promenade of Lake Toya.
Days 4 to 5: Niseko
During the green season in this
popular winter playground,
snowboards, skis and poles are
swapped for rafts, canoes, fishing rods
and golf clubs. Climbing, cycling,
kayaking, trekking – action-packed
activities for everyone in the family
abound. And if you are looking to
slow down a bit, visit some farms for
fruit or vegetable picking, or discover
more about Niseko’s history and
Japan’s culture with a quiet afternoon
in its art and history museums.
As a more established international
resort town, Niseko has plenty to offer
when it comes to facilities, organised
tours and family-friendly attractions.
One must-do for families with young
children is “Pure” at Hilton Niseko
Village. Exciting outdoor recreational
activities – tree-treks, horse riding,
zip-lines, hot-air balloon rides and
more – will surely leave your kids
happy and exhausted.
In Niseko, the cost of
accommodation can be as steep as
its world-class slopes. If you are on
a budget, book instead at Kutchan,
which is just outside Niseko.
Day 6: Otaru
Prepare for your palate to be
tantalised in the lively port city of
Otaru. As a fishing port established
in the 1800s, Otaru is well known for
its seafood – so much so that it has a
street dedicated exclusively to sushi
restaurants! But, if you are seafood-
averse, do not despair: Just head down
to Sakaimachi Street, where beautiful
aromas drifting from street food stalls,
the splash of colours at the produce
stands and the free samples (yes, free!)
of delicate Japanese biscuits, airy
Hokkaido cheesecakes and superb
chocolates will delight.
If you are feeling guilty about your
gastronomic indulgence, set out on a
walking tour, exploring the historic
canals, the herring mansions and the
slopes that Otaru is famous for.
Day 7: Sapporo or Furano
If you’ve had your fill of nature-based
activities and would like to experience
the vibe of a Japanese city, then take
a day tour of Sapporo, Hokkaido’s
capital.
Sapporo made its mark on the map
when it hosted the Winter Olympics
in 1972, the first ever in Asia, and the
city still hosts prestigious international
winter sporting competitions. A visit to
its Winter Olympics museum is a real
treat for kids and sports fanatics.
On the other hand, if you would
like to end your journey around
Hokkaido in a postcard-like setting,
then drive further up north to the
lavender and flower farms of Furano.
In full bloom during the summer,
the flower fields of Furano could
inspire the least artistic traveller to
reach for an easel and paintbrushes.
As the sun dips and casts softer light
on the blooms, you sip a cup of tea,
drinking in the beauty before you,
and realise that this is how one should
feel after a holiday: exhilarated,
rejuvenated and inspired.
January 2015
63
