Lay of the land
Blanketing seven hills and overlooking
the River Tagus, Lisbon is a
photographer’s dream. Life carries on
in the old quarters much as it’s done
for centuries. Alfama’s crumbling
architecture is interspersed with
public baths and stone tables, where
the older generation congregates to
listen to
fado
(Portugal’s melancholic
traditional song), eat bread and drink
wine, and chat about the goings-on.
Both on hilltops, the areas of Graca
and Bairro Alto’s narrow streets are
lined with trendy restaurants and bars,
with boutique shops popping up all
over the place. Century-old mansions
and riverside docks are converted into
grand eating places and nightclubs,
and the old mingles gracefully with
the new at every corner.
In the summer months, Lisbon
heats up under a turquoise sky. The
bougainvillea-lined streets are emptied
as surfboards are stacked on cars
and everyone heads to the beaches of
Cascais and Estoril. There is nothing
quite like dipping in the ice-cold
Atlantic, getting hot sand between
your toes and sitting in the rustic
Guincho Bar watching the waves
whilst sipping a freezing cold beer and
eating a
tosta mixta
– a Guincho classic
sandwich of toasted cheese and ham
with an egg on the top.
Guincho Beach is a treat unto
itself – a spectacular setting with a
constantly changing backdrop. It has
always been my favourite beach, and
its perfect sands, jagged rocks, blue
skies and temperamental seas made it
the perfect setting for the Bond film
On Her Majesty’s Secret Service
.
Dramatic during the day with the
world’s best kite-surfers on show, it’s
equally dramatic during storms late at
night. And the children love it – they
spend hours here climbing rocks,
scouring the rock-pools with their nets
for crabs and anemones, rolling down
the giant sand dunes or surfing them
on their boards with their dad, who
has arrived to great excitement.
And perfect day upon perfect day
ends watching the sun set on Europe’s
West, as the kids weave their way
through reeds and sand dunes on the
“magic” wooden pathway… in full
view of their parents, who are happily
sipping
caipirinhas
from the rustic
Dunas de Cresima café at the top of
the most spectacular dunes.
There is so much to explore around
the area – from the historical towns
of Estoril and Sintra to the traditional
fishing village of Cascais, where bulls
are released on to the beach every
September to challenge the locals’
bravado. We stay at my parents’ house
near Cascais, a fishing village with
charming narrow alleyways and the
typical blue and white
azulejos
(tiles)
that are so particular to Portugal. The
area is dotted with fabulous hotels,
both grand and quaint, converted
palaces or windmills, with spectacular
views of land or sea. Our days are
spent on beaches, riding horses at the
