and smoothies are ubiquitous. Peer at
the produce at the Central Market,
while enjoying a refreshing
sorbetera
(frozen custard).
Wildlife watching
We travelled south to the Quepos
and Manuel Antonio area to a hotel
with wonderful green views, perfect
for clifftop sunset drinks. Manuel
Antonio National Park is relatively
small, but despite being popular, it’s
easy to lose the crowds. Hiking was
hot and steamy, but the easy trails
afforded fantastic views of the forest
and coastline. We spotted an amazing
variety of animals – up close and
personal – including troupes of tree-
swinging monkeys, prehistoric-looking
iguanas, pecking woodpeckers, a tree
sloth and huge, vivid butterflies. There
are coves and beaches for swimming
and picnicking, complete with actual
lounging lizards! Children will be
enthralled with an idyllic introduction
to the rainforest’s wonders.
Pacific paradise
Who doesn’t love a palm-fringed
beach? Our trip to Montezuma
included an exhilarating 90-minute
speedboat ride across the Golfo de
Nicoya, with the bonus of seeing a
giant manta ray leaping alongside us.
Montezuma is an immediately
charming little place drawing
artists, yogis and Rastas seeking an
alternative lifestyle. Amongst the
beads, surf dudes and hippy chicks
are happy holidaying families. Stroll
out of town to waterfalls and natural
swimming pools or hike in the famed
Cabo Blanco wilderness reserve.
Find peace on a beach and marvel
as flocks of pelicans swoop into the
sea. We found more peace at yoga
as night fell, with floral scents in the
air, accompanied by wildlife noises –
emerging 90 minutes later feeling pura
vida in full flow! Despite Monte’s small
size, there’s fine international and
local fare to savour, but at high prices,
comparable to the US or Europe.
Further up the Pacific Coast
is family-friendly Playa Samara,
a laid-back town complete with a
long, curved sandy beach. Gentle
waves make for relatively easy surf
lessons. Our evenings there concluded
with stargazing whilst swinging on
hammocks, sipping dark Imperial
beer.
Hot springs and hills
From Samara, we ventured north-
east to La Fortuna, gateway for
Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal. The
spectacular drive from the coast to
the hills had scampering monkeys and
cute coatis, tails held proudly aloft. La
Fortuna is awash with tours, spas and
hot springs. Luckily we’d heard about
the (free!) natural, outdoor springs
favoured by Ticos. Climb down to the
river and immerse in blissful warm,
flowing lava-heated water. Venture
further up river to deeper pools of hot,
gushing water. A bubbling soak here
or at a swanky spa is a must!
January 2015
83
