A highlight was a hike up (and up!)
to the crater lake of a volcano, Cerro
Chato. This long, muddy hike was
incredibly scenic, despite the clouds
obscuring mighty Volcán Arenal’s
famed cone. We were fortunate in
La Fortuna to party at a local family
fiesta with Latino music, sipping rum
sours. Over alfresco breakfasts of
gallo
pinto
and succulent fruits, the hotel
garden came alive with a kaleidoscope
of coloured birds.
Cloud forests and canopies
The next destination was the
impressive, if blustery, peaks of
Monteverde and Santa Elena. These
hilly towns are surrounded by dairy
farms (settled by Quakers), making the
locale noted for cheese and delicious
ice cream. A tour of the Monteverde
Cheese Factory might delight. Java
junkies will be in heaven at a coffee
plantation. Our private tour at a fair
trade co-operative included a lesson
on growing, grinding and roasting
beans, before tasting customised
barista blends. Bags of beans made
good gifts, too.
This delightful area is big on
adventurous ecotourism amongst
its rainforests and cloud forests.
Yomping through the misty, pristine
Reserva Santa Elena reveals diverse
trees, mysterious mosses and birds
– an atmospheric experience all the
better for Santa Elena seeing fewer
tourists than Monteverde Reserve.
For an adrenalin-filled activity, book
a canopy tour. We spent a thrilling
afternoon combining zip-slides, a
Tarzan swing and “superman flights”
through the rainforest, complete with
wobbly bridges and wooded walks.
Even my cautious husband adored
the surreal rush of flying high above
the rainforest! Options for smaller
daredevils include bridge walks (giving
a monkey’s eye view of the rainforest)
or enchanting evening safaris.
Caribbean spice
Following these thrills were new areas
to discover on the Caribbean coast,
with its heady mix of Tico and Afro-
Caribbean cultures. The region has
vast swathes of banana plantations,
and bananas are Costa Rica’s main
export, along with coffee.
In attractive Cahuita town our cute
B&B was nestled in colourful gardens
near Playa Negra. Dine out on spiced,
coconut-infused dishes whilst people
watching and listening to reggae
music. One evening we came across an
all-singing, all-dancing gospel service.
We also spied a huge, furry tree sloth
lazily hanging from a telephone wire
beneath a streetlight – what a photo
opportunity!
When rain washed out beach plans,
we hit up the farmers’ market for
tropical fruits and vegetables, tasty
smoked
queso fresco
(fresh cheese) and
yummy cakes. Head along the coast
to Puerto Viejo, famed for its laid-
back vibe, surfy ambience, arty shops
and restaurants. Worthy of a hike is
Parque Nacional Cahuita for wildlife
spotting: monkeys, birds, lizards,
iguanas and even (deadly!) tiny yellow
vipers. The park has sandy beaches for
reading, playing or jumping the waves.
Bubbling volcano
Alajuela is a good final destination,
being close not only to the
international airport, but also to
Volcán Poas. The national park is
situated a scenic ride away, where it’s
an easy hike to the active (but safe!)
crater rim and forested walking trails,
with lakes and animals. Luckily, clear
weather provided spectacular views
of the enormous bubbling, belching
cauldron. Kids will have fun here,
and at a water park, fed by a gushing
spring, south of Alajuela.
Whilst it’s certainly a long way to
Costa Rica, this diminutive nation will
exhilarate all ages with eco-focused
adventures. The weather delights
year round and the infrastructure is
excellent. Friendly Ticos will share
their
pura vida
for a thrilling, tropical,
Technicolor trip to remember.
Photography below: Gillian Johnston
January 2015
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