hanging on the wall behind her and
        
        
          visible through the open front door.
        
        
          Where to stay
        
        
          One is spoilt for choice in terms
        
        
          of accommodation in most Asian
        
        
          beach retreats these days, but often
        
        
          the competing hosts inadvertently
        
        
          spoil their stomping ground to some
        
        
          degree. Vinh Hy Bay is a babe in arms
        
        
          in comparison, currently offering
        
        
          only two options – the budget Vinh
        
        
          Hy Resort, which has yet to develop
        
        
          its website, and Amanoi. There are
        
        
          more hotels in Phan Rang, the capital
        
        
          of Ninh Thuan province located a
        
        
          40km/60-minute drive south of Vinh
        
        
          Hy Bay, outside the boundaries of Nui
        
        
          Chua National Park.
        
        
          Amanoi would certainly be first
        
        
          choice if your budget can stretch to
        
        
          it. Aptly named after the Sanskrit-
        
        
          derived word for “peace” and
        
        
          
            noi
          
        
        
          meaning “place”, the resort offers
        
        
          a central pavilion (housing the
        
        
          restaurant, bar and library) and a
        
        
          breathtaking cliff-top pool overlooking
        
        
          the bay from the property’s highest
        
        
          point. Thirty-one guest pavilions
        
        
          (16 with private pools and all with
        
        
          impressive views) are situated along
        
        
          a ridge or next to a lake covered in
        
        
          lotus blossoms, and five Aman villas
        
        
          (ideal for families) dot the property.
        
        
          The lakeside Aman Spa offers a
        
        
          Pilates studio, gym, yoga pavilion
        
        
          and hydrotherapy suites, while the
        
        
          Beach Club backs a private beach
        
        
          and provides another swimming pool.
        
        
          The resort also features two tennis
        
        
          courts and, more importantly for a
        
        
          family travelling with small children,
        
        
          a resident doctor who is available 24
        
        
          hours a day.
        
        
          What to do
        
        
          Snorkelling the reefs of the marine
        
        
          reserve fringing Vinh Hy Bay and
        
        
          the East Sea leave you humbled by
        
        
          nature’s creativity. For scuba divers,
        
        
          the National Park at present offers
        
        
          two options: dives with shore entries
        
        
          and two- or four-hour dive trips by
        
        
          boat. Dive sites abound in the area,
        
        
          and an independent PADI-certified
        
        
          dive operation is soon to set up shop.
        
        
          Fishing is the main industry in Vinh
        
        
          Hy Bay, and those keen to throw out
        
        
          a line can easily arrange a spot on a
        
        
          fishing boat with local fishermen.
        
        
          Hiking is an attraction,
        
        
          considering the National Park’s size
        
        
          and beauty, but the sport is still in
        
        
          its infancy. The National Park offers
        
        
          two hikes guided by National Park
        
        
          Rangers: The 5km route to Red Rock
        
        
          (300m above sea level with stunning
        
        
          views) goes via a Raglay ethnic village
        
        
          and past Lo O Spring, while the
        
        
          second trail takes in Rock Park, with
        
        
          its striking rock formations, and Thit
        
        
          Beach, where turtles lay their eggs in
        
        
          season.
        
        
          Cultural excursions in the vicinity
        
        
          of Vinh Hy Bay take in several
        
        
          historic Cham sites. Forming an
        
        
          important ethnic group in Vietnam,
        
        
          the Cham are the remnants of the
        
        
          Kingdom of Champa, which ruled
        
        
          the region between the seventh and
        
        
          18th centuries. Noteworthy sites
        
        
          include 13th-century Poklong Garai, a
        
        
          collection of ancient towers; Bau Truc,
        
        
          a traditional Cham pottery village;
        
        
          and My Nghip, a Cham brocade
        
        
          village.
        
        
          A Vietnamese cooking class with
        
        
          one of Amanoi’s chefs is a superb
        
        
          way to engage with local culture, as
        
        
          you learn how to make the dishes
        
        
          that constitute this world-renowned
        
        
          cuisine.
        
        
          
            Banh xeo hai san
          
        
        
          (rice pancakes
        
        
          with seafood and bean sprouts) is a
        
        
          popular dish in the province, and you
        
        
          can’t go wrong with a traditional bowl
        
        
          of
        
        
          
            pho bo
          
        
        
          (noodle soup with beef) with
        
        
          handfuls of fresh herbs.
        
        
          While Wikipedia and Trip
        
        
          Advisor are still rather stumped when
        
        
          you search “Vinh Hy Bay”, it won’t be
        
        
          long before the birth announcement
        
        
          is out. Don’t miss your chance to
        
        
          get in before the crowds! And while
        
        
          you’re there, why not toast this new
        
        
          destination with your
        
        
          
            ca phe sua da
          
        
        
          (iced
        
        
          Vietnamese coffee), and hope the area
        
        
          retains every nuance of its current
        
        
          natural beauty as it develops apace.
        
        
          November 2013
        
        
          95