I
ntrigued by the idea of
India but finding it all a bit
overwhelming? The state
of Tamil Nadu is free from
the manic mayhem you might be
picturing and Chennai, its main city,
is just six hours from Hong Kong
but a world away in terms of culture.
With a week to spare in this corner of
the country, we were able to see and
do plenty at a pleasant pace while still
getting a true and tantalising taste
of India. Here’s what we did on our
holidays…
Curries and culture
The charming people and laidback
air of Chennai (formerly known as
Madras) belie its economic power as
India’s fourth-largest city. It’s unusual
in not having a main business-,
sightseeing- or shopping centre, so
we hailed taxis or auto-rickshaws to
get around. Rather than staying in a
big international hotel, we opted for a
charming B&B in a quiet, leafy area
(within walking distance of shops and
restaurants) which let us experience
Chennai’s less touristy side.
This is a city that loves to eat –
music to my foodie ears! India does
some of the world’s best vegetarian
food, spiced locally with coconut
and chilli. Meaty local dishes are
also popular. Huge
masala dosas
are a breakfast staple (served with
spicy chutney) or opt for an omelette
(try a masala one to kick-start the
day). Cool your palate with fresh
coconut milk and ice creams. Coffee
(unusually popular for India) and
tea (chai) are great pick-me-ups at
any time of the day, generally served
sweet and milky.
The city is a shopper’s paradise
with a myriad of markets. George
Town’s lively old merchants and
wholesale businesses have flourished
for centuries. Try Pondybazaar for
silks and saris, as well as Western
casual clothes and sportswear.
Chennai has numerous teeming
temples and characterful churches,
from Buddhist to Christian to
Muslim. The long, sandy Marina
Beach is nice for an early-morning or
late-afternoon stroll, when the locals
amble and sample street-side snacks.
Tamil Nadu
Taking time in
From caves and carvings to foodie feasts and fishing villages, Tamil Nadu
makes an enthralling holiday destination, writes
Gillian Johnston
.
Colonial charm in Pondicherry
Next, we travelled south to the
evocative city of Pondicherry (known
as Pondy). Part of Pondy’s charm is
its gorgeous (and good value) heritage
hotels. We stayed in a boutique
B&B in a colonial French villa with
huge bedrooms, wooden shutters,
local artefacts and all modern
conveniences.
This scenic city is easy to stroll
around, safe and very friendly, with
chatty locals. Colonial influences
remain, from street signs in French
to the stunning painted buildings.
Other memorable sights were ladies
in saris in every hue imaginable, with
fresh flowers adorning their long hair.
Scores of schoolchildren love to wave.
There are gift shops and galleries
galore with cool cotton clothes
and stylish accessories. Browse the
handicrafts for souvenirs or stock up
on spices and Ayurvedic toiletries.
Check out the produce market
(crammed with fruits, vegetables and
textiles) to view groups of locals deftly
making fabulous flower garlands. If
your kids are old enough, or if one
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