parent has a few moments’ escape,
be sure to visit Sri Aurobindo, the
famous ashram, for quiet meditation
in the garden. Take a boat to Paradise
Beach’s soft sand and warm waves or
let kids run off steam along the town’s
beach.
Pondy’s cafes and restaurants
combine Franco-Tamil flair with a
touch of colonial
je ne sais quoi
. Freshly
baked croissants vie with dosas, whilst
cooling
kulfi
(cardamom-scented is
my favourite) vies with chocolate
cake. There’s steak for committed
carnivores, plus lots of international
favourites such as fresh pizzas and
pastas.
Devotion in Tiruvannamalai
Next, we headed north to
Tiruvannamalai, an unassuming,
bustling town revered by Hindus,
who come to worship in their droves
at the famous temple of Shiva. The
main temple is amazing in both
scale and detail, full of holy men and
devotees of all ages. Visiting in the
morning and again in the evening
captures the different lights and
mysterious moods. There’s even a
temple elephant!
Tiruvannamalai is also famous
for ashrams, so we saw more
Westerners there than anywhere
else during our holiday. In cooler
weather, hardy types might hike up
the surrounding hill to imagine the
huge fires of ghee which burn during
the main pilgrimage times (between
November and December).
Whilst the town may be visited as
a day trip from Pondy, an overnight
is recommended for an enhanced
experience and to break up the
journey. A local evening speciality
is hot milk flavoured with saffron
and almonds. There are plenty of
shops selling sweets and
burfi
(a fudge-
like treat) to nibble whilst exploring.
Mamallapuram’s caves and carvings
We ended our tour in coastal
Mamallapuram (aka Mal), popular
with New Age hippies and Indian
holidaymakers for its beaches and
temples. A World Heritage site, this
small, easy-going town lends itself
to whiling away several chilled-out
days.
Transport includes classic
Ambassador cars, auto-rickshaws
(be sure to bargain hard!), cycle
rickshaws and ordinary vehicles,
all employing liberal use of the horn.
There are lots of cows; indeed, we
spotted a few poking their noses into
shops and a couple nuzzled against
my leg one evening!
Caves and intricate, ancient
rock carvings make Mal famous.
The cutely named Krishna’s Butter
Ball is a huge, precariously balanced
rock – cue great photo opportunities!
Kids will love clambering amongst
the rocks pretending to be a
modern-day Indiana Jones. Historic
archaeological wonders include
Arjuna’s Penance and Five Rathas
– huge, rock structures and intricate
carvings of animals and gods that
were hidden by sand until excavated
by the British around 200 years ago.
There’s also a working lighthouse
affording good views of the town and
beach.
There are plenty of places to rest
your head, from comfortable guest
houses to larger hotels with pools.
The long sandy beach is ideal for
walking, paddling and jumping the
waves, and watching the fishermen
mending their colourful boats and
nets. No surprise, there’s plenty of
seafood on restaurant menus, which
serve international and Indian dishes.
The town boasts a German-style
bakery as well as shops selling treats,
from carrot
halwa
to
gulab jamun
.
There are outlets galore for souvenirs,
clothes, jewellery and art. Be sure
to watch the local artisans create
intricate rock carvings.
Time in Tamil Nadu will charm
your soul as the warmth of its residents
touches your heart.
1.
You will need a tourist visa,
which is available in advance.
2.
Avoid the very hot months of
May and June.
3.
Local buses are rather dusty
and sweaty, so hire a driver for
comfort and speed.
4.
Don’t be afraid to sample street
food, from spicy savouries to
sweet sensations.
5.
Tipping is the norm for all
services, given that wages are
low, so have your money ready.
6.
Practise good hygiene,
especially hand-washing, and
you’ll reduce your risk of “Delhi
Belly”.
Top Tamil Tips
January 2014
65
